The Obscure Houses

- by Heather Jean Birkeland -

"When that [building] is built, this house will be no more," heart breaking words from the mouth of  83-year-old Yuan, the owner of a small historical house situated just a few feet off a busy street in the center of Macao.

 

As a girl living in this fast-growing city, I can't help but wonder how my view of this place I call home is different, compared with someone who has seen its past and its dramatic transformation.I can't help but wonder, how exotic it will be to see an actual historical house co-existing and blending in with the new and modern city.If there was, then I wonder why.

 

Little did I know, the answer to all those years of wondering and dreaming was hidden in plain sight - at the corner of the street where I have been living for 22 years.

 

The two houses located in the Travessa do B¨²zio alley have withstood the test of time and are still standing till this day. Pedestrians who walk by the buildings don't really know that these are actual houses where people still live in.Some who pass by the houses on a daily basis didn't even realize of its existence.

 

The minimalist small grey house, a family heritage built by Yuan's grandfather has been a home to him for over 70 years. Over 20 years ago, Yuan also bought the small yellow house next to his childhood home and has been living there ever since.

 

"Back in the day, the whole street was filled with rolls and rolls of small houses like these two houses," said Yuan. However, most of the houses have already been taken down and replaced by newer and taller buildings as the city develops.

 

I was intrigued by the fact and reason behind why and how these two houses were the only two still standing when the others on the street were taken down?

 

To my surprise, the answer was not as complicated as I could have imagined.

 

"If it wasn't for the street [Rua do Padre Antonio Roliz], the government would have taken down this house a long time ago," says Yuan sarcastically.

 

Yuan states that since it's located on the street, the government has an unascertained rule that prohibits taking it down or build a new building on the land.

 

"They will not even permit you to fix the house if it's broken," Yuan claimed and explained that the government will not sign the papers nor provide subsidies and workers for the maintenance of the two historical houses.

 

He presumed that the government will even be "thrilled" if the houses collapse one day, and they won't even have to give any compensations for it at all.

 

Retired around 20 years ago, Yuan is a former architect, therefore, fixing things is in his blood. He said, "if the government doesn't help, then I'll do it myself."

 

Every day for the past 10 years, I remember walking by his little house and see him fixing many different electrics, and sometimes he does it as a favor for friends and neighbors but the main reason is to stay awake. He has even built the bathroom, kitchen and the little wooden room on the pavement due to the lack of space.

 

When asked what will happen after the construction for the building is complete the second time, Yuan was uncertain and said that maybe the government will leave it as an "antique" and "let me live here as long as I could," adding that although he has the land deed and is currently paying the land tax, he may need to follow the government's decision in the end.

 

The building under construction behind the two small houses is going to be a 23-floor residential building and is expected to be completed by the end of 2018.

 

"Supposedly, the government will turn this road for transport after the building is built," says a construction worker from the building site residential building.

 

Yuan states that he had already bought apartments in case the government demands to make a road which will take down the two houses, he'll still have a shelter in the end.

 

Macao, once known as the "City of the Name of God" (Cidade do Nome de Deus De Macau), has transformed from a fishing village to the biggest gambling capital of the world in less than two decades.

 

While the Historical Center of Macao has become a famous tourist attraction which the whole world now admires, many valuable historical buildings, small houses, alleys and villages are on the verge of vanishing.

 

The two small houses of Yuan are exceptions that have miraculously survived through all the changes, but what would happen in the future as the city continues to grow?

 

No one knows.Maybe the government will take them down after the residential building is completed or maybe the little houses will still be standing as a silent witnesses to this ever changing city.

 

 

 

 

 

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©    umac bridges fall 2017