Walking into the Alleys
By Amy Tong

Macao is a place so tiny that you cannot even point her out on the world map, yet she has a rich past, culture and patrimony - a rich multiculturalism, a remarkable gift of Eastern and Western cultural exchange over 400 years.

 

For 21 years, I have been passing through Largo de Senado maybe 10,000 times. I am too familiar with the atmosphere and surroundings that have actually limited or somehow I lost my patriotism, inspiration and sensation towards this little interesting area. Until these days, I started realizing the charm of this little plaza partly because I became the tour guide of my Singaporean friends and partly because of the multiculturalism topic for my article. Frankly, I am not a qualified tour guide and even a Macao citizen because I just started to explore.

 

For more than a century, Largo de Senado (Plaza of the Senate Building) is regarded as the centre of Macao where it inherits the most precious Western heritage. The Post Office and the Holy House of Mercy on the right hand side are of ancient Western architectural style. The three-storey building on the left reflects a new classical style of architecture in which it is colorful and every window is different in shape. In the early 90s, the Portuguese government invited a Portuguese artisan to pave the plaza with black and white Portuguese stones that portrayed a similar street in Portugal. These fancy wavy stripes on the ground shine brilliantly with the glittering classical architectures on both sides that fully portray a rich southern European charm.

 

Largo de Senado not only embraces the southern European charm but also different languages with more and more tourists from around the world. It is such a good place for tourism where foreign corporations launch their branches like Starbucks, Levi's, McDonald's, SaSa, etc. According to my Singaporean friends, besides appreciating the spectacular scenery and architecture, they also enjoyed shopping and different delicacies here in Largo de Senado.

 

Not far away from the plaza, walking into the alleys on the left hand side of Largo de Senado where you will find another world of ancient Chinese cultural heritage and traditions. Sam Kai Vui Kun (Kuan Tai Temple) is located just on the left hand side in one alley near Largo de Senado. According to the Macao Heritage website, the temple was built in 1792 by local Chinese tradesmen, which was a precursor to the Chinese Chamber of Commerce in the city and is associated with Chinese business associations. Its architecture reflects the ancient Chinese style with the green glazed tiles, the recessed entrance gateway and the grey brick faƁade, etc.

 

A few steps further from Sam Kai Vui Kun, we arrive at St. Dominic's Market and the bazaar area. The market was already there for more than a century. It was originally built in the hope to link up the northern and southern bazaar areas nearby. Now, the modern seven-storey building of St. Dominic's Market is a reconstruction. The bazaar area has different types of hawkers and stores selling low-cost clothes, lingerie, accessories, toys, necessities and export merchandise, etc. which are very different from the grand stores in the Senado Square. No matter you are a foreigner or local citizen, customers going there are searching for practical, worthy stuff with reasonable pricing. Stalls and stores there are small and in simple fixings, but they possess all the necessities. Within its modest and simple appearance, the bazaar embraces the essence of traditional Chinese culture.

 

At the heart of the main city square with its predominantly western culture, traditions and architecture, Sam Kai Vui Kun, St. Dominic's Market and the bazaar area nearby are still keeping the essence of traditional Chinese culture which fully illustrates the harmonious coexistence of the two cultures.

 

Right left to the Portuguese plaza, there is the Chinese bazaar, right next to the boulevard, there is the alley, right next to the colorful architectures. There are grayish simple buildings. These precious cultural heritages are succession of human endeavors over 400 years that has benefited Macao for this multicultural identity.

 

I am content with my exploration. I am convinced by this beautiful mistake of being a Portuguese colony. I am proud because I live in this special little city that has given me a rich cultural background. I become more curious to explore more of my homeland -- Macao which tells where I came from, shapes who I am and influences what I will be. For 21 years, she has witnessed my growth and I have seen her changes. She is a dramatic little city with unique cultural and regional experiences, tranquil but prosperous. Come and explore Macao starting from Largo de Senado, I am sure you will find our homeland more loving.